The Beginner’s Guide to Choosing Rock Climbing Shoes (Without Getting Overwhelmed)
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Unless you know what you're looking for, it can be super intimidating to shop for your first (or second) pair of climbing shoes. We get it!
We've prepared this guide to help you gain an edge before you begin shopping.
Downturn: Flat vs. Aggressive Shape
The downturn of a shoe refers to how much the toe curls down when the shoe is on your foot. This affects how the shoe performs on different terrain, and each term really describes the degree of overhang of each wall.
Neutral (Flat)
Best for beginners or all-day comfort. Great for vertical walls and long sessions. They let your foot lie flat and feel more like street shoes.
Moderate (Slight Downturn)
A versatile middle ground. Comfortable enough for longer climbs, but with enough precision for steeper routes or smaller footholds.
Aggressive (Heavily Downturned)
Designed for steep overhangs (like the roof on the Lead Wall, or The Wave on our Boulder Island here at The Edge Rock Gym - Miami) and advanced climbing. These shoes force your toes into a powerful position, giving you more control on tiny footholds—but they’re not exactly built for comfort.
Start with what fits your goals
If you're just getting started or plan to climb for hours, neutral or moderate shoes are a better call. Even if you're the type to like to "go big, or go home," it's best practice to allow your feet to acclimate before forcing them into an aggressive downturn.
Closure Type: Slip-On, Velcro, or Laces
How your shoe stays on your foot affects both performance and convenience.
Slip-On (Elastic)
Super easy to get on and off. Great for training and bouldering. Less structure, more flexibility. You’ll feel everything—but they can stretch out over time.
Hook-and-Loop (Velcro Straps)
The go-to for many climbers. Quick to take off between climbs, which is nice if you're bouldering or resting often. Good mix of security and convenience.
Lace-Up
Offers the most adjustability and precise fit. Ideal for long routes or people with tricky foot shapes. Not the fastest to take off mid-session, but solid for all-day wear or dialing in the exact feel.
Sole Design: Match Your Discipline
Climbing shoes come with different sole builds depending on what type of climbing you’re doing most.
Full Sole
One solid piece of rubber from heel to toe. More support and stability—especially helpful for Auto-Belays, Top Rope Climbing, or Lead Climbing where you’re on the wall for longer periods. More durable, too.
Split Sole
Rubber under the toe and heel, with a cutout in the middle. Allows for more flex and freedom of movement. Great for bouldering and indoor climbing where precision and dynamic moves are more common.
Technique-Specific Features
Depending on how and where you climb, certain features will make a big difference. These features tend to be more prevalent on Moderate and Aggressive downturned shoes:
Soft Shoes
Provide sensitivity—you’ll feel every bump and edge. Great for smearing and toe-hooking. Ideal for indoor bouldering and slab climbing. Not as supportive for long routes or heavy edging.
Stiff Shoes
More support and power on small edges and longer climbs. You won’t feel the wall as much, but your feet won’t fatigue as quickly either. Often better for sport and trad routes.
Toe Box Shape
Pointy toe helps with precision on small holds. A rounder toe is more comfortable and better for beginner climbers or crack climbing.
Heel Fit and Rubber Coverage
Important for heel hooks. Look for a snug fit and decent rubber coverage if your climbing involves a lot of technical heel work.
Toe Patch
Extra rubber over the toe area helps with toe hooking—a must for steep bouldering problems.
Looks Matter (A Little)
Let’s be real—if you love how your shoes look, you’re probably going to feel better wearing them. While color doesn’t impact performance, the confidence boost from liking your gear definitely does. Most climbers don't really care whether a shoe is labeled as being for Men or for Women if they like the color.
Just don’t let aesthetics override fit and function. A great-looking shoe that doesn’t perform or fit right won’t help you climb better.
Final Thought: Fit Over Everything
Regardless of all the features above, fit is king. A well-fitting neutral shoe will outperform a poorly-fitting aggressive one every time. Climbing shoes should be snug, almost uncomfortably so, but not painful. No dead space. No slipping heel. Try them on if you can. If not, read size guides carefully—climbing shoes often run small.
We highly recommend a shoe that checks all these boxes for your bare foot, rather than with socks, though we understand that this is a personal choice. Socks vary in thickness, and the added squish of the sock can make for soft spots where the shoe should be reinforced by your foot filling out the shoe, and can cause them to wear out sooner.
Happy Climbing!